Turkey and Syria earthquake evokes memories with Fakenham Lynn News columnist Wensum

Wensum by Jim Harding

For some days now I’ve been reading the papers and watching the news on television about the massive earthquake which has devastated the border region areas of southern Turkey and northern Syria.

As a long-time supporter of the charity Action Aid we have also received an appeal to help the thousands who are suffering in the wake of this catastrophe.

It was good to see that this plight was headlined on the front page of last Tuesday’s Lynn News with the words: ‘United in grief by quake tragedy.’ Along with a full page reporting on the ways in which the people of West Norfolk have been demonstrating their support and a detailed practical guide of how the victims can be helped.

It was impossible for me not to be transported back to 1963 when I was hitch-hiking across Turkey and Syria to reach Iraq, Iran and beyond. Fortunately, I kept a detailed day-to-day diary which confirms my presence in places such as Gaziantep in Turkey and Aleppo, across the border in Syria, both of which have been massively struck by the recent earthquake.

Here’s a brief snapshot of Gaziantep and Aleppo in the company of my mate Alan: "A lift in a UNICEF vehicle got us to Gaziantep where our presence attracted a horde of children.

"Was there something exceptional about two ‘foreigners’ carrying rucksacks in these parts? Truth to tell, we were probably a bit of a rarity. A meeting with an archeologist, the director of the town’s only museum, led to a brief inspection of its dusty bits and pieces.

"She also took us to her home for refreshments. As most vehicles here liked to charge for transport we were pleased to have a supply of cigarettes which were acceptable currency. Five Players got you a fair distance.

"One exception to this ‘rule’ was a horse and cart ride which clopped us to an army post where the hierarchy, perhaps bored, decided to exert their authority. A small posse of rifle-bearing soldiers marched us to the Syrian border via a series of posts covering about six miles. It was our scariest experience on the road.

"On arrival at a small candle-lit tea-house we were given shelter and supper before bedding down on the floor for the night. The next day we made it to Aleppo, Syria’s second biggest city. Cities are generally unfriendly to travellers such as us but after some to-ing and fro-ing we were greeted kindly.

"A hubble-bubble pipe-smoker who had served with the British army and retained reasonable English, helped us to buy some supplies. We were later introduced to Abdullah in his shop, a truly wonderful character. He offered us his shop floor for sleeping, lent us his primus stove to cook on and served us tea and slices of melon. He even poured water so that we could wash our sore feet.

"Later that evening the manager of a large cotton factory suggested we go there for more comfort. Sleeping in the massive machine rooms turned out to be difficult in the heat.

"The next day Abdullah escorted us to a nearby petrol station, a popular traffic stop, from where we eventually picked up a lift from a driver who had also learnt some English via the British army. Within an hour we were on our way again, this time across the desert towards the border with Iraq….."

As a raw twenty-year-old at the time, my eyes were opened every day to new experiences and challenges. Living amongst these people, albeit for no more than a week or so, I was generally met with nothing but hospitality and generosity. My heart goes out to them during this awful crisis.