Wine O’Clock: Giles Luckett raises a glass to Fairtrade Fortnight

In this week’s Wine O’Clock column, Giles Luckett raises a glass to Fairtrade Fortnight…

Fairtrade Fortnight kicks off on Monday, so I’m recommending four Fairtrade wines that will make you feel good while you do some good.

Fairtrade certification guarantees farmers and workers a fair price and a premium for social development projects. In a world that’s seeing inequality levels rise, I’ll drink to that.

First up, the Mount Rozier Chardonnay (Sainsbury’s £7.50). You get an awful lot of wine for the money here, and with its easy-going charm and moderate acidity, it’s great on its own or with food.

Pale gold, its bouquet is an attractive mix of apples, peaches and pears with a dash of tropical fruit and honey. The medium-bodied, softly textured palate offers more of the same with a gentle lemony acidity keeping everything balanced.

Boldly setting out its stall is the Co-op Fairtrade Irresistible Sauvignon Blanc (£6.75). While the pedant in me would debate its irresistible nature - I resisted for a good 30 minutes while it chilled - it’s a cracking Sauvignon that puts many a less-ethical wine to shame.

Good varietal notes of cut grass, peppers and gooseberries lead the charge, but there’s no New World aggression here. The ample white and green berry tones are politely presented and the twist of nettles and green herbs gives life to the fresh finish.

South Africa’s Journey’s End wines are always worth seeking out. Things like the Journey’s End Sir Lowry Cabernet Sauvignon (Majestic £15) are seriously good, especially at such an affordable price.

This time I’m going for their Bubblegum Merlot (Sainsbury’s £12.75/£10.75 with Nectar). Varietal Merlot isn’t usually my cup of tea, or glass of wine, but this is excellent. Packed into its soft, mellow body are plums, cherries, chocolate, and violets with luscious vanilla oak. This could, as it so often does for me, become too much of a good thing, but spicy nutmeg and savoury raspberry freshness keep it balanced.

I’ll finish this week with the Kleine Zalze Shiraz/Carignan (Tesco £8.25). This Rhône blend works well in South Africa. The Shiraz is exuberant, spiced with black pepper, and drives it forward with plenty of blackberry, and loganberry fruit.

The Carignan anchors it with its juicy earthiness that provides a savouriness and a bitterness that, combined with the gentle tannins, make it food-friendly.

Right, well after all that talk of Fairtrade, I think it’s only fair I have a glass or two. Next time out, I’ll tell you why you need to know the wines of Errazuriz.